Spiking interest: Viral designer Abra on his official Paris Fashion Week debut

While he wants this level of exclusivity in terms of wholesale, Abra’s positioning is in the contemporary bracket, more aligned with JW Anderson or Jacquemus, to make it accessible for his young consumer base. Shoes are maximum €500, while bags never go above €800. “Nothing will pass €1,000,” the designer says.

He’s learning each season, and rethinking certain design elements to make his pieces more affordable and wearable. For example, when Abra started out, the brand was focused on hardware (notably its spikes). Now, the designer has tried to reduce the hardware slightly, to make the bags lighter and reduce production and shipping costs while keeping prices competitive. He also works with local Spanish suppliers, rather than having to ship skins to Italy. That way, his manufacturers can just “go next door to the next factory and get another skin”.

Wearability is paramount to the success of the brand. And while the pieces may have a bold detail or a twist, they are centred on very wearable silhouettes and fabrics, like T-shirts, ballet flats, jersey and cotton. Perez avoids delicate accessories and clothes. “If I make something super conceptual, you wear it once or twice, or you’re afraid you’re going to ruin it. I don’t want people to buy my bags and treat them like they’re fragile because they’re not.” Abra uses materials that Perez says are “resistant to party girls”, like suede that looks good with wear and tear, and high-quality Spanish leather “you can even take to the beach”.

Abra’s direct-to-consumer business (managed by Perez’s brother) is growing, particularly in Spain, where the brand doesn’t yet have any wholesale stockists. With almost 35,000 followers on Instagram, Perez is something of a local influencer, which “has helped a lot” with raising awareness, he says. “The direct business is going so well. Before, I didn’t have enough money to buy my own stock, but little by little it’s getting better and better.”

After three sell-out pop-ups across Madrid and Paris, with “lines down the street”, Perez is keen to open his own store, akin to the concept spaces he loves around the world. “I really want to create a bit of community in Paris. If I have a shop, there’s going to be coffee. I want my people to hang out with us, you know?”

Eventually, the designer would love to have the support of a big luxury group to help him with materials, development and business advice. “There are limitations as a small brand,” he says. “I’m very proud of what I do. But it could go so much further if we have someone very smart advising us and helping us build a proper team.”

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