All the highlights from Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS25

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Tomorrow marks the end of Milan Men’s Fashion Week for SS25 (Spring Summer 2025), and its been a week full of plenty to talk about. Before we move onto Paris mid-week for some exciting new debuts there – we wanted to talk shop about the highlights from the Italian capital’s showings.

 

When is Milan Men’s Fashion Week for SS25?

We are now at the tail-end of Milan Men’s Fashion Week – which takes place from 14–18 June 2024. Plenty of heavyweights have shown this week like Prada, Armani and Gucci – but the week’s hottest ticket was perhaps its opening show from Moschino’s new creative director Adrian Appiolaza.

And as of tomorrow, we head to Paris Men’s Fashion Week – taking place from 18–23 June 2024. It’s expected to be a more subdued affair given the disruption of the Olympics in town – but we still have some exciting debuts (like Michele’s Valentino) to tune into.

 

Show highlights

Moschino

Moschino made their return to the runway under the creative lead of Adrian Appiolaza in an alfresco setting backdropped by a comically high pile of luggage. The House’s inaugural menswear collection did not disappoint fans of the brand’s theatrical direction under Jeremy Scott, with croissant necklaces, stationery-adhered suits and watermelon bags among some of the collection’s more camp accessories.

The collection titled “LOST AND FOUND” certainly adhered to a playful eclecticism and a peripatetic spirit; genderless suits and tailored trenches appliquéd with cracked eggs and jumbo jet fascinators, while the call of Italy came through in red-white-and-green hued looks complete with footballs tucked under arms.

 

JW Anderson

Despite showing across the pond in Milan, the Irish designer erred close to his roots for his SS25 collection – bringing to the runway snug, quilted duvet coats and “Guinness” emblazoned knitwear. Sleep seemed central to the show’s theme, with guests welcomed into a twinkling, lightbulb-strung show space that set the tone for the cosy, padded silhouettes on the runway.

Anderson’s quest for “Real Sleep” extended to invitations – with the slogan stitched onto tees as invites to the presentation.

Enlarged, elongated and exaggerated silhouettes – now a pastiche of the JW Anderson House – fell somewhere between the dramatic and the cartoonish with bunched-up boots and thigh-grazing waffled bomber coats. There were greetings from the brand’s first-ever eyewear too.

 

Emporio Armani

Bucolic projections of lavender fields and frolicking wild horses were cast across the walls of the Teatro Armani show space where the Emporio Armani SS25 menswear collection was unveiled.

Titled, ‘Freedom in Nature’, the show was buoyed by a sense of adventure – nodding to the equestrian, to safari jackets and heavy-duty footwear – all while retaining a through-line to its signature dapper tailoring.

Nearing his 90th birthday, designer Giorgio Armani seemed eager to transplant his usual urban attire to a place where nature runs a little wilder – among the 80 looks on show, shirtless fieldmen, collarless military jackets, voluminous tunics and lavender-toned looks.

 

FENDI

 

As the Roman house gears up for its centenary in 2025, FENDI showed its Spring 25 collection at its new Milanese venue, Super Studio Maxi. Designer Silvia Venturini Fendi sent models marching down a runway centred by six giant, kinetic mirrored monoliths, paying tribute to the her first menswear collection from 1990 through a nostalgic reimagining of classic silhouettes. Casual trench coats, cropped windbreakers and checked trousers earmarked a relatively youthful and preppy showing.

In keeping with the theme of academia, the designer was inspired by a rather dapper 1984 airport photo of the Italian national football team, and developed a crest incorporating the squirrel (a motif used in her Grandmother’s packaging and at FENDI’s first store) and other brand icons from over the years.

 

Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons’ Prada SS25 showing took place at its usual home at their Milanese headquarters. Guests sat on curved benches parallel to a meandering runway, andn beneath a floating house. The collection, titled “Closer” blended traditional button-downs and straight-cut trousers with wired collars and ultra-cropped jackets. Accessories were minimal – mostly in the form of soft, chocolate brown bags and silver-buckled belts that were slung low on the hips.

The 18th-century painter Bernard Buffet was paid homage through expressionist figures on tees, and tri-sided cutouts in knitwear alluded to the geometry of the House’s signature logo.

 

Gucci

Sabato de Sarno’s sophomore men’s collection for Gucci took ‘Resort’ to a whole new level with a surfing-themed collection. Shirts printed in abstract surfers, colourful cabana shirts and hibiscus and dolphin prints were intermixed with some of the House’s more traditional favourites – bright long-leather macs, horsebit boots and leather accessories in acid greens, neon oranges and of course the classic Gucci Rosso red.

 

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